The Very First Birkin. Jane Birkin’s Iconic Prototype Heads to Auction

Luxury, history, and celebrity all converge in one handbag: the ORIGINAL Birkin—designed in 1984 by Hermès’s then-president Jean‑Louis Dumas for actress-singer Jane Birkin—is going up for auction in Paris this July.

A Bag Born from a Chance Flight

In 1984, Jane Birkin was seated next to Hermès CEO Jean‑Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London. When her straw basket spilled its contents—diapers, cigarettes, glasses—onto Dumas, she lamented that she could never find a practical leather bag. He responded by sketching one on a sickness bag. That sketch evolved into a prototype tailored to her needs—a roomy, functional symbol of elegance.

What Makes It Unique?

• One-of-a-kind dimensions: it combines the width and height of a Birkin 35 with the depth of a Birkin 40.

• Distinctive hardware: gold-plated brass fittings, a one-piece shoulder strap, vintage zipper, and even a nail clipper hanging from a chain.

• Personal touches: Birkin’s initials “J.B.” are embossed on the flap, and traces of UNICEF and Médecins du Monde stickers remain—evidence of her use.

  
  

This isn't a pristine luxury display—it's been lived in. It offers an authentic glimpse into how Birkin actually used it.

Provenance & Exhibition

1994: Birkin donated the bag to raise funds for AIDS charity.

2000: Purchased by Catherine Benier, founder of the Les 3 Marches vintage boutique in Paris.

It has since been exhibited in MoMA (NY), the V&A (London), Hong Kong, Paris, and New York—most recently on display until June 12.

Auction Details

Sale date: July 10, 2025, in Paris, during Sotheby’s inaugural Fashion Icons sale.

Estimated value: TBD—but it could challenge the $513,000 record set by the “Himalaya” Birkin in 2017.

This prototype isn’t just a bag—it’s the origin story of a fashion phenomenon. It represents a pivotal moment when bespoke craftsmanship met global luxury appetite. Sotheby’s Morgane Halimi labels it a “true unicorn,” likening it to Princess Diana’s sweater or Freddie Mercury’s cloak.

This historic piece offers collectors a rare chance to own both an early Bellwether of premium craftsmanship and a celebrity artifact from Jane Birkin’s storied legacy.